A man knelt and kissed the carpet decorated with the ship’s logo. Another lifted his wife and spun her around, excited to be among the approximately 5,000 passengers ready to embark on the inaugural sailing of the world’s largest cruise ship, the Icon of the Seas.
For months, the 250,800-ton ship, which can carry nearly 8,000 people, has made headlines, including some who criticized its size and potential for harming the environment. But passengers who shelled out $1,800 to $100,000 and boarded the ship at the Port of Miami in Florida on Jan. 27 said nothing could have prepared them for the size of the vessel.
“It’s astonishing,” said Christina Carvalho, a 43-year-old accountant from Oakland, California, as she stood on the ship’s Royal Promenade, gaping at “The Pearl,” a giant kinetic art installation. “It looks even bigger than I expected.”
While Royal Caribbean equipped the ship with amenities to create “the ultimate family vacation,” the company’s design team sought to challenge negative stereotypes such as crowded decks and long lines. Instead of steel walls, the interior is open and airy, with floor-to-ceiling windows to bring passengers closer to the water and make the main street feel less like a shopping mall.
“Over the years our customers have told us that despite being on the ocean, they didn’t feel connected to it, so with Icon we wanted to bring water everywhere,” said Jennifer Goswami, director of product development at Royal Caribbean International.
I was aboard the Icon of the Seas for five days of its inaugural seven-night sailing to the Eastern Caribbean. Here are some of my takeaways:
Boarding
Boarding begins via the Royal Caribbean app. After a few hiccups, it took me 10 minutes to scan IDs, fill out a health form and choose a time slot for boarding.
On the day of departure I headed to the port of Miami expecting chaos, but as soon as I got out of the taxi I was greeted by a porter who took my bag and accompanied me to the terminal. I scanned my app, showed my passport, and was through security in less than 10 minutes. I lingered, waiting to see if others had had as pleasant an experience as mine, but there was just a steady stream of passengers coming onto the gangway.
space
The ship has the feel of a city, with eight distinct “neighborhoods”. My favorite, Central Park, was filled with 20,000 species of plants; it was the perfect place to walk or read on a bench. The Royal Promenade, with karaoke and piano bar, can get crowded and noisy at peak times.
The seven pools are designed for different vibes and demographics: The Hideaway is an adults-only infinity pool, with DJ sets and cocktails; another adult pool has an adjacent children’s pool. Empty lounge chairs were plentiful for sunbathers throughout the ship.
On our first day at sea, I was so surprised by the relative lack of crowds that I walked around the ship trying to find them. But with so many venues, including 40 restaurants, bars and entertainment spaces, passengers were in constant motion.
Looking for a quiet space one afternoon, I found the Aquadome, a quiet relaxation area with wraparound windows. The other passengers took a nap there.
Entertainment and activities
From a sunrise surf simulator lesson to late-night disco dancing, the ship seems to offer something for everyone, most of it free. The water park with six slides was a great attraction. One ride, the Crown’s Edge, isn’t free: Starting at $49, it launches you (in a harness) above the sea, leaving you dangling.
There’s a fitness center, a jogging track, a basketball and soccer field, a putt-putt course, pickleball, rock climbing, and dancing. A health club and spa offers treatments at an additional cost. Everything can be booked on the app; for the most famous attractions such as Crown’s Edge it is useful to book in advance because places fill up quickly.
As for evening entertainment, “Aqua Action” was outstanding, with aquatic entertainers performing under a 55-foot waterfall, as was the comedy club.
Not surprisingly, some passengers felt overscheduled. “There’s almost too much to do,” said Nancy Carter, 54, a nurse from Brighton, England. “It’s hard to plan your day and even when you’re busy doing something, you feel like you’re missing out on something else.”
Family
In the Surfside neighborhood there are pools and restaurants for both adults and children so families can spend time together. For parents looking for some alone time, Adventure Ocean childcare has play areas and programs for children ages 6 months to 12 years, included in the rate.
There’s also a teen community center with games and music. “It’s a great place to meet new people and make friends,” said Madison Foxx, 14, of Morrisville, North Carolina. Her mother, Ashley, a 38-year-old federal prosecutor, said the ship entertained her two children and allowed them both alone time and quality family time.
“I can relax and the kids are happy and busy all day,” she said, “Then we have so many special moments together.”
food
One of the biggest surprises was the vast choice of restaurants.
The Windjammer Cafe and main dining room were the most popular all-inclusive options. My daily go-to was the Aquadome food hall, with made-to-order crepes and a Greek food stand. Another favorite of mine was Pier 7, a restaurant in Surfside that served raw tuna Buddha bowls, mango-lime shrimp toast, and other dishes.
Meals at specialty restaurants, such as Giovanni’s Italian Kitchen and Hooked Seafood, cost additionally or are included in some food and drink packages ranging from $9.99 to $115 per day. Reservation is recommended.
The Empire Supper Club offers an eight-course meal paired with cocktails. At $200, the tasting menu included Wagyu ribeye, rabbit and sea bass topped with parsnip and beetroot.
Cabins
Cabin prices, recently increased due to strong demand, range from $2,699 per person for an interior cabin to more than $100,000 for a three-story home with an interior slide and yard. Some family-friendly accommodations have connecting rooms and large terraces.
Although it was only 204 square feet, my oceanfront balcony room didn’t feel cramped thanks to the minimalist design and views.
environment
Royal Caribbean says it has set a new standard for sustainability with this ship, installing advanced water treatment and wastewater systems, among other features. But some environmental groups say building a ship of this size is not compatible with the cruise industry’s long-term sustainability goals.
On board, I saw staff sorting through rubbish to eliminate misplaced items for recycling, and single-use plastic appeared to be minimal; Passengers were provided with reusable cups at drinking stations.
The fact that the waterslides remained open even after closing to passengers took me by surprise. It seemed like a useless waste of energy. (Royal Caribbean did not respond to a request for comment.)
Passengers I spoke to didn’t seem too concerned about the ship’s potential damage to the environment, and some argue that land and air travel aren’t climate-friendly either.
Excursions
Our seven-night itinerary began with two days at sea. The first stop was on the fourth day in Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts and Nevis. Excursions ranged from a Mount Liamuiga hike to a food and wine tour, with prices from $39 to $249. I chose a sailing and snorkeling excursion ($155) and enjoyed the secluded bay, but the beach it was crowded and touristy.
An eagerly awaited excursion for Ms. Foxx, the federal prosecutor, and others was Coco Cay, Royal Caribbean’s private island. When I asked about her visit—I called later, having to disembark before the excursion—Mrs. Foxx said her children loved the slides and snorkeling.
And would you sail on the Icon of the Seas again?
“Yes, but I could wait a while,” he replied. “I want everyone to have a chance to experience it.”